tailieunhanh - Designing with stretch fabrics

The aim of the study is to make the process of stretch pattern construction more transparent in CAD applications for the designer/technician, fabric technologist and global manufacturer, and ultimately to offer better fitting and more comfortable garments for the customer. | Indian Journal of Fibre Textile Research Vol. 36 December 2011 pp. 366-379 Designing with stretch fabrics Penelope Watkinsa 3D Design and Technical Fashion London College of Fashion 20 John Princes Street London W1G 0BJ Loose fitting garments can accommodate a greater number of different bodyshapes but close fitting garments cannot. The assumption is that stretch garments will automatically stretch in the right places to give an acceptable fit and provide comfort as well as ease of movement. But this is a fundamental misunderstanding of stretch fabric characteristics and garment pattern geometry. To date the garment industry has focused on speeding up through the use of CAD systems empirical pattern construction methods which developed through custom and practice. This subjective approach has significant limitations particularly when applied to stretch pattern design it is inappropriate for today s technology. A brief overview of current pattern technology has been presented in this paper. The factors considered in developing stretch pattern technology include digitally quantifying the degree of fabric stretch and an objective approach for assessing stretch fit. The aim of the study is to make the process of stretch pattern construction more transparent in CAD applications for the designer technician fabric technologist and global manufacturer and ultimately to offer better fitting and more comfortable garments for the customer. Keywords Close fitting garments Digital fashion design Pressure garments Stretch pattern design 1 Introduction Elastane was developed in mid 20th century as a replacement for rubber in corsetry. Increasingly the inherent benefits of stretch to comfort and mobility are utilised in high proportion for applications particularly those which closely contour the body. Stretch fabrics are also a major component of the functional clothing industry. However the understanding of how to optimise the stretch potential in pattern design is in relative .