tailieunhanh - Báo cáo " A numerical model for the simulation of wave dynamics in the surf zone and near coastal structures "

This paper describes a numerical model for the simulation of near shore wave dynamics and bottom topography change. In this part, the nearshore wave dynamics is simulated by solving the depth integrated Boussinesq approximation equations for nearshore wave transformation together with continuity equation with a Crank‐Nicholson scheme. The wave runup on beaches is simulated by a scheme, similar to the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) technique. The wave energy loss due to wave breaking and shear generated turbulence is simulated by . | VNU Journal of Science Earth Sciences 23 2007 160-169 A numerical model for the simulation of wave dynamics in the surf zone and near coastal structures Vu Thanh Ca Center for Marine and Ocean-Atmosphere Interaction Research Vietnam Institute of Meteorology Hydrology and Environment Received 07 March 2007 Abstract. This paper describes a numerical model for the simulation of near shore wave dynamics and bottom topography change. In this part the nearshore wave dynamics is simulated by solving the depth integrated Boussinesq approximation equations for nearshore wave transformation together with continuity equation with a Crank-Nicholson scheme. The wave runup on beaches is simulated by a scheme similar to the Volume Of Fluid VOF technique. The wave energy loss due to wave breaking and shear generated turbulence is simulated by a k - e model in which the turbulence kinetic energy TKE generation is assumed as the sum of those respectively due to wave breaking and horizontal and vertical shear. The verification of the numerical model against data obtained from various indoor experiments reveals that the model is capable of simulating the wave dynamics turbulence and bottom topography change under wave actions. The simulation of turbulence in the surf zone and near coastal structures enable the model realistically simulates the contribution of suspended sediment transport into the bed topography change. Keywords Wave dynamics Wave runup Wave energy Surf zone Boussinessq model. 1. Introduction Extensive researches on the wave dynamics sediment transport and bottom topography change in the nearshore area especially in the surf zone 1-5 7 9 12 14-17 have elucidated various aspects of coastal processes such as the dynamics of wave breaking characteristics of turbulence in the surf zone structure of the undertow the development of bottom boundary layer under breaking waves the rate of bed load transport uptake of bed material for suspension settling rate of suspended .

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