tailieunhanh - Ebook Basics fashion design 03 - Construction: Part 2

Part 2 book "Basics fashion design 03 - Construction" content presentation: Surface-specific techniques, haute couture and tailoring, draping on the mannequin, support and structure, finishes, glossary. | Surface-specific techniques 90 I 91 I love to take things that are everyday and comforting and make them into the most luxurious things in the world. Marc Jacobs 1 Fur jacket by Julien Macdonald A W08. This chapter deals specifically with the range of techniques used for specialist fabrics and materials. Finishes and treatments that are added to a fabric at any stage of its process can make the material difficult to cut sew or finish. These include felted wools lace sequinned and beaded fabrics knits and fabrics that have a nap such as velvet. A material such as fur or leather whether it is real or synthetic also requires specialist knowledge in its construction. Garment construction Surface-specific techniques Haute couture and tailoring 1 Surface-specific techniques Felted fabrics 1 An abutted seam. 2 A top-stitched hem finish. 3 A top-stitched hem with 1cm turned under. 4 A flat fell seam. 5 Calvin Klein dress made of felted wool A W08. . Felted woven fabrics are shrunk and compressed with heat moisture and friction to produce a dense appearance. Some of the better-known felted fabrics are loden melton or fleece. The edges of a felted fabric do not fray so seams can be left unfinished. It is most common to use a plain stitched seam with topstitching or a welt seam for light- to medium-weight felted fabric. But there are many more techniques to choose from such as Abutted seam Topstitched hem Abutted seams or channel seams can be used as decorative seams by applying a ribbon or any contrast fabric as an under layer. Prepare a 3cm strip as an under layer and mark the centre of the strip. You can use contrasting or matching fabric. Place the raw edge of both sides of the garment pieces on to the centre line of the strip. The strip is lying on the wrong side of the fabric pieces with the right side up. Now top-stitch each side of the garment pieces on to the strip. If required you can also leave a gap to show more of the decorative strip. .

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